T-Shirt Terms Explained: Dropped Shoulder, Raw Hem, Ringer, Raglan and More
C.B. ShawShare
What do T-shirt terms like dropped shoulder, raw hem and ringer mean? Dropped shoulder means the sleeve seam sits below your natural shoulder point. A ringer tee has contrast-colored bands at the collar and sleeve ends. A raglan sleeve runs diagonally from underarm to neckline with no shoulder seam. A raw hem is an unfinished, cut edge. This glossary explains each one in simple words, plus where the names came from, and we flag the stories that are only rumors.
Product pages are full of these words, and they decide how a shirt wears. We use several of them at Innocently Insane, so we want you to know what you're buying.
Necklines
| Term | What it is | Where the name came from |
|---|---|---|
| Crew neck | A round neckline with no collar. | Wikipedia says the name dates to as early as 1930 and was “named after a type of sweater worn by rowers,” citing Merriam-Webster and a 1957 Milwaukee newspaper. Plausible, but that's a dictionary-level source. The US Navy issued a crew-neck short-sleeve undershirt in 1913. |
| V-neck | A neckline that dips to a point. | Wikipedia says it was made so the neckline doesn't show under an outer shirt. We found no date. |
| Henley | A collarless shirt with a short button placket. | Said to be named for Henley-on-Thames, where rowers wore it. The first Henley Royal Regatta was in 1839, but the shirt link rests on one blog post. Unproven. |
Sleeves and shoulders
| Term | What it is |
|---|---|
| Set-in sleeve | The sleeve is sewn into the natural armhole, with the top of the sleeve eased in. It gives a sharper shoulder line but slightly less arm lift (Minerva sewing guide). |
| Raglan sleeve | The seam runs diagonally from underarm to neckline, so there's no shoulder seam. It gives freer movement and a softer shoulder (Minerva). |
| Dropped shoulder | The sleeve seam sits below the natural shoulder point and the top of the sleeve is straight. Front and back are close to rectangles, which gives a relaxed, boxy, oversized look (Loughborough University pattern page). |
For how these affect fit, see our guide to boxy vs oversized vs loose fit.
The raglan story
Wikipedia, citing the Oxford English Dictionary (3rd ed., 2008), says raglan is named for FitzRoy Somerset, 1st Baron Raglan, who lost an arm at Waterloo in 1815. Lord Raglan commanded British forces in the Crimea in 1854, and the coat style is plausibly named from then. So named after Lord Raglan: true. The popular tale that the sleeve was designed for his missing arm is unproven, because the source doesn't settle which story is right.
Style words
- Ringer tee. A solid shirt with contrast bands at the collar and sleeve hems. Wikipedia says it appeared in the 1960s as a youth and rock staple. One enthusiast article places it in the 1970s, which we did not read, so call the 1960s start the better-sourced date and the 1970s the peak.
- Cropped tee. Short enough to show the midriff. Wikipedia says tight cropped tees trended in the 1990s. We found no standard length.
- Boxy. A roomy, straight cut. We found no source that defines it directly. The nearest is the dropped-shoulder description above.
- Raw hem. Generally an unfinished, cut edge instead of a stitched hem. We found no source that defines the term, so treat this as plain description.
A few history bits
From Wikipedia's T-shirt article: the Navy issued its crew-neck undershirt in 1913, the word “T-shirt” entered Merriam-Webster in the 1920s, a printed Air Corps Gunnery School tee appeared on the cover of Life in 1942, Katharine Hamnett made oversized slogan tees in the early 1980s, and Miami Vice put a white tee under an Armani suit in the mid-1980s. These come from a general reference, so we treat them as solid but not deeply sourced. For the full story, read the history of the T-shirt.
T-shirt term myths, graded
- “Crew neck comes from rowing.” Plausible, not proven for the T-shirt.
- “The Henley was invented by rowers.” Unproven.
- “Raglan was invented for a one-armed general.” Unproven.
- “The ringer tee started in the 70s.” Partly false. The better source says the 1960s.
Questions people ask
What is a dropped shoulder?
A cut where the sleeve seam sits below your natural shoulder point, giving a relaxed, boxy look.
What is a raw hem?
An unfinished, cut edge in place of a stitched hem. We found no formal definition, so this is a plain description.
What is a ringer tee?
A solid tee with contrast-colored bands at the collar and sleeve hems.
What is a raglan sleeve?
A sleeve with a diagonal seam from underarm to neckline and no shoulder seam, for freer movement.
Who was raglan named after?
FitzRoy Somerset, 1st Baron Raglan, per the Oxford English Dictionary as cited by Wikipedia. Whether it was designed for his missing arm is unproven.
What is a set-in sleeve?
A sleeve sewn into the natural armhole, giving a sharper shoulder but slightly less arm lift.
What is a crew neck?
A round neckline with no collar. The name may come from a rowers' sweater.
What is a Henley?
A collarless shirt with a short button placket. The Henley-on-Thames story is unproven.
Why does a V-neck exist?
Wikipedia says it was made so the neckline does not show under an outer shirt.
When did crop tops trend?
Wikipedia says tight cropped tees trended in the 1990s.
What is the difference between boxy and dropped shoulder?
Dropped shoulder describes where the sleeve seam sits. Boxy describes the overall straight, roomy shape. Many boxy shirts also have dropped shoulders.
See These Cuts at Innocently Insane
We offer boxy, raw hem and long sleeve cuts. Check each product page for the cut details.
Quiet Minds Vintage Wash Boxy Raw Hem Tee · Vintage Wash Long Sleeve Boxy Tee
